When I was planning how to spend our 4th year together in Hong Kong, I thought of spending it like we are really in Hong Kong. City streets, locals and Chinese foods, not the mainstream of temples, shopping and theme parks. I was really aiming for something frugal yet involving, where stimuli are rare for our responses to deepen how much we really know each other.
November 2015, just when we started planning this trip, Michelin which I knew was just listing haute restaurants in big countries, released their brow raising, first ever street food outlet section on their list. Ive always been dreaming to dine with her in famous restos and thought should we be able to chow down in all the 23 listed street foods, that may perhaps equate to 5 Michelin Starred Restaurant. Yes that was I thought, plus the excitement the HK conurbation could surprise us.
Sharing our frugal itinerary and lovely snapshots below. Make this your #relationshipgoal, #wheninhongkong next time, use #HKmichelinSF
DAY ONE
MAMMY PANCAKE, Ground Floor Carnavon Mansion, 8-12 Carnavon Road, Tsim Sha TsuiFAT BOY, Shop G1 Ground Floor, Working Port Commercial Building, 3 Hau Fook Street, Tsim Sha TsuiYING KEE, Ground Floor, Shop 10 Hong Keung Mansion, 32-34 Hong Keung, San Po KongWAH YUAN, Ground Floor, 38 Shung Ling Street, San Po KongLan Ying, 92-94 Fuk Lo Tsun Road, Kowloon CityDOGGIE’S NOODLE, Ground Floor, 27A Ning Po Street, JordanKAI KAI, Ground Floor 121-123 Parkes Street, Jordan
DAY TWO
CHIN SIK, 49 Shui Wo Street, Tsuen WanWING ON, 24 Tai Ho Road, Tsuen Wan (We aren’t actually sure about this, but this is the nearest to that address given)CHEUNG HING KEE, 13 Chuen Lung Street, Tsuen Wan (We have asked attendants from nearby stalls and a police officer. The all said this is where Cheung Hing Kee was before it was closed due to robbery.KWAN KEE STORE, 115-117 Fuk Wa Street, Sham Shui PoKUNG WO TOFU, 118 Pei Ho Street, Sham Shui PoHOP YIK TAI,121 Kwelin Street, Sham Shui PoTHREE POTATOES, Shop 5 Ground Floor, 30-32A Nullah Road, Mong KokKEI TSUI, 135 Fa Yuen Street, Mong KokJOYFUL DESSERT HOUSE, 74 Hak Po Street, Mong Kok (we have arrived here 1:05 Pm of January 25 unfortunately it is closed)SOUPREME, 20 Beech Street, Tai Kok Tsui
DAY THREE
KELLY’S CAPE BOP, 57 Johnston Road, Wan ChaiBUTCHERS CLUB, 2 Landale Street, Wan ChaiKEUNG KEE, 382 Lockhart Road, Wan ChaiCANAAN THAI SNACK, 72 Java Road, North Point (The address points to this outlet with a different name, TONKLA THAI SNACKS)MAK KEE, 21-23 Fort Street, North PointLEE KEUNG KEE, 492 KIng’s Road, North Point
Being a tourist in a destination which most of the establishment signs are in Mandarin or Cantonese characters, hunting your subjects turns to be more exciting. When we had the rove around the recently Michelin cited 23 Hong Kong street food outlets, we had noticed the following helpful ocular traits to notice in order to validate your quest and chow down exactly in one of the street food outlets recognized by Michelin as deserving to be in their Guide for the FIRST EVER Street Food Section.
Not all of the 23 outlets have this Michelin seal sticker yet, January 23-25, 2016
Note that when you vaguely understand the direction of your Google map and you are not able to see the Michelin seal sticker in the facade, these five could help you as confirmatory spots.
1: THE QUEUE
It goes with the recognition of these outlets that they are serving really good food. Thus, patrons do not care how long they will be waiting just to indulge in the quality of food to be served to them. Locals are enjoying the queue, day and night. We have never seen anyone irritated nor annoyed while waiting for their turn. It seems like everyone understands that they have to wait just to taste the food. When I asked a young professional next to me, he said that falling in line, no matter how long would that be is already part of the culture when you want to immerse yourself in Hong Kong street food scene. Most of these stalls open by 12 noon and close at 9pm.
(LEFT) 7:03PM, Locals who have just logged out from work fall in line for the EGG WAFFLES of LEI KEUNG KEE in North Point. (RIGHT) 10:43AM, Locals from blocks near market in Sham Shui Po queue for HOP YIK TAI’S RICE ROLLS. Yes that’s me falling in line for the second time while chowing down our first plate. The sauce is really magical. It’s like a more watery mixture of peanut butter and soy sauce. I chose a chilli version for our second serving and that made our lips really hot red.
2: THE FLOCK
Stores might have both the line and the flock or just either. For those who serve “take away” only or does not have enough space anymore for those who wanted to dine in, you would find an obvious flock of locals waiting for the call of their food being packed. “Take Away” is their term for take out. Just like seeing the locals patiently waiting in the queue, this scene would really make you rationalize that these stores really are worth listing in the Michelin since their food are really being patronized compared to other street food stalls on the same block or others who offer the same menu. That simply means they are serving distinctly delectable food.
(LEFT) Young professionals and students from nearby schools in Kowloon City, waiting for their “take away” SATAY-NASI GORING meals in LAN YING.(RIGHT) Ppy smirks with impatience while Hong Konger ladies flock in front of KEI TSUI for their CANTONESE PUDDINGS. She’s just waiting for her turn for a 12HKD-WALNUT COOKIE.
3: POSTERS
As their signage is written with a non-English font, reaching these stores is not really that easy. What they post though on their walls would help you validate your quest. Aside from locals, HK celebrities have also invested their time to taste how sumptuous these recognized street foods are. Actually, these personalities have long appreciated these foods way before Michelin did their list this 2016. Printed articles from blog features are also being posted. In fact, we have confirmed that we have arrived at Soupreme, in Tai Ko Tsui when we stopped awhile and read some of the articles in their glass wall.
(LEFT) Among the 23 outlets, DOGGIE’S NOODLE in Jordan which is famous for their FRIED PORK FAT NOODLES, has the most number of arrayed celebrity pictures that stretch from their order counter to the walls of the dining area.(RIGHT) Those printed blog features are indeed helpful tools to identify SOUPREME in Tai Kok Tsui since obviously in the photo, their store streamer is even slightly detached. The relieving feeling of sipping their signature CANTONESE DOUBLE BOILED SOUP compensates the hard to hunt journey though. Really worth the searching, especially when you eat it with their drunken eggs in a wintry breeze.
4: DINING TRAFFIC
For those stores which possess a part for dining, it is noticeable that the tables and chairs are always almost occupied. Locals just simply have to stand minutes after partaking their orders since others who do not choose to pack their food for take away, earnestly wait for a table to be free. If there is a third sign next to enjoying the QUEUE and patiently waiting in the FLOCK that I am really appreciative with the discipline and kindness of Hong Kongers, It would be this. They are selfless enough not to stay longer seated, seeing others who are waiting to eat. This scene may be true to all Hong Kong restaurants, but it is in these few Michelin listed stalls where you could really appreciate it more since a lot of locals really lord over it.
(LEFT) Inside KAI KAI in Jordan which is known for their GLUTINOUS RICE DUMPLINGS IN GINGER SOUP, there’s an assigned personnel who supervises as to where a just arrived guest shall seat. (RIGHT) Just in front of Kai Kai is DOGGIE’S NOODLE, though has a more street stall appeal as chars and tables are just assembled almost occupying the side walk, the influx of customers are equally overwhelming.
5: RED
When we finished the collage of the facade photos of all the Michelin street food stalls, this was a common characteristic we have noticed, their business names are all in RED font. To be precise, 16 out of the 23 outlets have Red or shades of red colors in their signage. Especially those stores which have been really existing for significantly long years, their streamers are as simple as red letters in white background.
(LEFT) KUNG WO TOFU in Sham Shui Po is so identifiable despite of the street market tents in front because of the bold red-white combination of its streamer. Their PAN-FRIED TOFU SNACKS opened my appetite to start eating tofu not just because it’s healthy. Yes, because their recipe just made tofu taste not tofu. (RIGHT) The back lighted red-yellow design of CHIN SIK in Tsuen Wan is very effective in catching your attention strategically so it wont be out shined by other signage nearby as it is found just beside a big shopping center. CART NOODLES here are perfect for a colder breeze being in New Territories. Try it with their chilli paste.
The palate memories from the foods served from these recognized street food outlets would definitely pull you to visit this gifted island state again. However, that particular behavior you have acquired of searching for a food house that thoroughly stretches your senses and that rewarding emotion of finally arriving and eat an internationally acclaimed meal? That made this wander indelible and such a unique, “checked-as-done” itinerary in our patented bucket list. You will be stuffed from head to the stomach, to the sole.